Monday, March 21, 2005

Kerala

A narrow, fecund strip at the Southwest tip of India, Kerala is verdant, fruitful,lush, luxurious -- a tropical paradise incongruous to the dry, hot, umber India that we've been traveling so far. I've read it called the 'gentle' side of India. Here, you can hear yourself think. You can be still. You an take the place in at your leisure. Here, things move at a snail's pace... elsewhere in India, they move at the speed of light (except for these internet cafes I write from).

The rest of India has been a blur. Aside from covering the Eastern half, from north to south in a matter of several weeks, there's a constancy of motion, chaos, clatter, confusion. But that's what makes it an interesting place to visit. India is a barrage to the senses -- like a topsy-turvy roller coaster ride ridden, from start to finish, with a blindfold on that slips every now and again, giving a glimpse of commotion without complete comprehension.

But 'glimpse' is too light a word... for this glimpse holds a thousand scenes, even more people, a multitude of languages, every color of the rainbow, the best and worst humanity have to offer, and a few cows thrown in for good measure.

Kerala is different.

Kerala's history reads like a page from an archaic, romantic novel about the sea, sailors, and the spice trade. Traders have been coming here for more than 3,000 years -- Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Chinese. The Portugese, Dutch, and English got in on the act, as well, giving today's Kerala a diverse blend of cultures, art, customs, and festivals.

Beach towns, tea plantations, wildlife sanctuaries, lagoons and canals -- all can be found in Kerala. And here, a glimpse can linger...

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