Sunday, September 04, 2005

Six Month Anniversary

We crossed the Thai border on September 1, our 6 month anniversary on the road. It was like entering a different world, like Dorothy's transportation from her dumpy Kansas home to the palace in Oz. Our yellow brick road, though, was part sea and part road. Smooth as the waters were that day and the road being paved, it was, indeed, a golden passage considering the bumpy, dirt roads we'd been traveling for so long in Cambodia up until this point. It's hard to believe that an invisible line on a map can have so much impact. One side of the border is one way, on the other side: the opposite. It's amazing that such an impoverished country such as Cambodia is next door to a country like Thailand, which is not yet considered a 'first world' country, though it probably should be.

We are now in Bangkok, a city more modern than any at home, and the change of pace is incredible. Gone are the Cambodian villages, where from the road, people can be seen lying about in hammocks whiling away the hours: swinging, snoozing, watching the world go by. The pace of life is slow -- there seems to be no concern for the future, even one day out. In Cambodia, I learned to enjoy the moment and worry about tomorrow when tomorrow came. Take, for instance, the weather. There's no sense in planning events around the forecast: there is no forecast. If you ask someone what the weather will be like in the next few days, your answer will be a shrug of the shoulders and a remark such as, "I don't know. I am not a magician."

Bangkok, with its 7-11s, fast food chains, ATMs, stylish coiffes, fashionable styles, neon, giant shopping malls, skyscrapers, sky rail, electronic toilets, and chilly air-conned interiors is a huge change. The irony is that there's so much traffic that the streets, while busy, move more slowly: ah, the trappings of urban life. Bangkok is, in a way, like being at home -- with all of the modern day conveniences we're used to (or not so used to any more). Except for a hot shower. We could pay for a more expensive room to get hot water in our bathroom, but we're still trying to live cheap. We haven't had a hot water shower in about 1 month, so I'm used to it now anyway.

We celebrated our anniversary by treating ourselves to a steak dinner and a movie. I would like to say that we went to some really cool, really hip restaurant... but we ended up at Outback Steakhouse -- the only way to get a 'real western-style' steak, at least, the only way we know of. We've tried steak, along the way, when it's offered on menus, but it's always something else. Perhaps water buffalo. I don't know.

We went to the theater in Siam Square to see 'Willie Wonka', which would have been a rather disappointing experience if it weren't for the 'Gold Class' seating option that we sprung for. It's a bit like buying first class tickets on an airplane or getting box seats at a stadium. Behind mysterious frosted glass doors, a whole new movie-going experience awaits. We arrived an hour early for the movie, so we sat in the 'Gold Class' lounge, which is carpeted with a navy blue pile with a gold star pattern (of course); the walls are painted a deep purple, the color of royalty; there is plush red furniture with sparkling gold trim and little cocktail tables, a dark wood wet bar, and 4-foot black and white drawings of famous Hollywood movie stars (like Cary Grant). We were served complimentary drinks and cookies while we relaxed with a few magazines from the racks along the wall, waiting for our movie. Life was grand.

We were ushered to our seats just before show time. The seats -- get this -- were giant, comfy, red leather recliners with a hand-held remote for changing positions. I thought they would have built-in massagers, as well, but not in this theater. We were each given a package that included a blanket, pillow, and a pair of white socks. Thank goodness for that, too, because the air con was on full blast. I don't think I've been so comfortable since the time we accidentally ended up in a luxury hotel in India that boasted 'a world of luxury and comfort'. Certainly, the chairs were more comfortable than many of the recent beds we've slept on, which are usually thin foam pads on a wooden frame. And the pillow was a joy: the one I have here in Bangkok is like a 10-inch tall block of clay. I can't remember the last time I wore a pair of socks...

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